S/S 2014 : Gilded at Dior



I find this makeup completely enchanting.  I love gold and turquoise together in general, and it totally work on the eyes at the Dior show.  And, AND, AND I had no idea that I also loved gold eyebrows!  Big, strong, bold, gold brows!  Gold brows and flawless skin.  The beauty editors might have a hard time finding a way to translate this to real life, but for now just revel is the pure audacity and fantasy of it.  And how lovely and strangely subtle it is.  It's in your face, and not in your face simultaneously.  Cleopatra would have loved his look, for sure....



Get The Look with mark. : Taylor Swift on the Cover of VOGUE Magazine

This month I tackled this lovely Vogue cover with Taylor Swift.  We have all come to know her with a red lip and a flick of black liner, but she looks great in a heavy black lined eye, and she looks like a totally different person.  I feel like this is how every girl wants to look; effortlessly cool, but still chic without that "trying too hard" thing happening.  (Ok, maybe it's just how I want to look, but I can't deal with bangs and I have a two year old so who has time for getting black liner on before running out the door??)


The girl can take a mean picture.  She knows how to look good in front of the camera and her look can read as very modern, or late 60's boho chic, and lots of other looks in between.  Sometimes I actually have to do a double take because I think it's a model in the picture.  And I love that.  So often celebrities just look like the same version of themselves, which I get -- they aren't models, they're actors -- but it's nice to see a little variety with their looks and to have them trust the photographer, hair and makeup team to make them look amazing.

Please note:  I did not work on the original images in these posts, only the recreation (for full credits please see the bottom of the post).  These pictures are culled from my inspiration library.  They are go to images for me, pictures that make me want to grab my makeup brushes and start painting!
  



I loved this Vogue cover, and our gorgeous model, Amanda Mondale (represented by Wilhelmina models) was an excellent stand in for recreating Taylor's look.  Recreating this look is all about black liner, fresh beautiful skin and a lip that looks like your own lip color after a make out session.  

For the skin I used Got The Goods Multi-Benefit Foundation Lotion in Light #3.  When I find a foundation that I like, I tend to stick with it, and this foundation from mark. is great.  It gives a nice medium coverage, but I can still work it down so I can see freckles and beautiful skin.  I really didn't need to use much concealer on Amanda, just a touch around the edges of the nose and a little under the eyes.  (Her skin is beyond flawless.)  I also clearly have favorite tricks that I employ.... highlighter on the ridge of the nose an cheekbones is a must for me, eve if the rest of the face is matte.  It gives the face a little magic and life, a touch of radiance..... I do it on almost everyone because it's insanely flattering.  That's Brilliant Face & Eye Luminizer gives you that perfect soft glow that isn't too sparkly, it's just right.  After the luminizer I set the base with Set Things Right Loose Powder in Light before adding a little flush to the cheeks with the Just Blushing Powder Blush in Kitten.  I prefer loose powder to pressed powder because you can get a lighter application with it.  And also it doesn't smash into a million pieces in you kit (it really really really bums me out when that happens) which is nice.



Amanda has great brows, she didn't need much.  I used a small angled brush to dust in a little matte brown shadow just to make them look a touch more finished.  Not much, just a hint.  Then I brushed them into place and set them with a brow gel.  Using a soft domed brush I swept on a fine layer of I-mark. Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Minx from the lash line almost up to the brows.  Using the same domed brush I used a little of the I-mark. Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Tabac from the lid to the crease.  It was just the smallest amount, meant to give a bit of depth to the lid, but still enabling the sheen from the Minx color to shine through.  Then I took No Place To Run Longwear Liner in Jet Set and scribbled it into the lash line on top and the waterline on the bottom.  Using a small concealer brush I blended the liner down into the lower lashes.  The liner was really more focused in a V-shape at the outer corner of the eyes in the picture so if I had drawn the liner on under the lower lashes it would have been too heavy.

PRO TIP:  I almost never draw liner directly onto the eyes.  I usually draw some onto the back of my hand and then use a small concealer brush to push the liner into place where I want it.  I find I have more control over the product this way and I can manipulate it better than if I use it straight from the pencil.  


After I had the pencil liner in place, I went over it on the upper lid with Get In Line Hook Up Waterproof Liner in Painted Black which is a liquid liner.  This gives the black a deep inky feel which you just can't always get from a pencil.  It really hammers the point home, if you know what I mean.  I did three coats of Scanda-Lash Go To Mascara in Blackest Black on the top lashes and on the bottom.  Lipclick Full Color Lipstick in Baby Luv gives that perfect "I'm not wearing lipstick, my lips are just naturally this enviable color" with just a hint of sexy sheen.  Love this color....

I hope you enjoyed this post and learned something new, whether it was a new product or a new application tip.  I love doing makeup, and I love sharing it with you!  Feel free to tweet me anytime at @fionastiles or comment on the post.  I will always get back to you....


photographer: Andrew Stiles (www.andrewstiles.com)  /  model: Amanda Mondale (wilhelmina models)  /   hair: Jen Blanchard  

PRODUCTS:

FOUNDATION:
Got The Goods Multi-Benefit Foundation Lotion in Light #3

CONCEALER:
Super Conceal Full Coverage Concealer in Light

HIGHLIGHTER:
That's Brilliant Face & Eye Luminizer

POWDER:
Set Things Right Loose Powder in Light

BLUSH:
Just Blushing Powder Blush in Kitten

EYESHADOW:
I-mark. Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Minx & Tabac

EYELINER:
No Place To Run Longwear Liner in Jet Set
Get In Line Hook Up Waterproof Liner in Painted Black

MASCARA:
Scanda-Lash Go To Mascara in Blackest Black

BROWS:
I-mark. Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Tabac

LIPS:
Lipclick Full Color Lipstick in Baby Luv

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VOGUE CREDITS:
photographer: Mario Testino
makeup: Gucci Westman
hair: Oribe

Get the Look with mark. : Gwyneth Paltrow on the Cover of HARPER'S BAZAAR Magazine



Subscribers to Harper's Bazaar got this stunning copy with Gwyneth Paltrow on the cover for the May 2013 issue.  When I opened my mailbox and saw it, it took my breath away.  A fresh, beautiful image with a nod to the 60's (ok, a big nod) and executed perfectly.  Gwyneth looks radiant and so elegant, perfect for a spring cover.









I love the creaminess of this makeup look.  The skin has color but it is still very fair.  There is little to the makeup, it isn't fussy or complicated, but there is still makeup there and it still makes a statement.  The lashes are doing all of the heavy lifting, and make you zone right in on the eyes.  The lashes are the only black on the page other than the Harper's Logo and type, which is a lovely anchoring for the image.  Everything else is light and fresh and ethereal, and I love everything about it!

Please note:  I did not work on the original images in these posts, only the recreations (for full credits please see the bottom of the post).  These pictures are culled from my inspiration library.  They are go to images for me, pictures that make me want to grab my makeup brushes and start painting!



Our model, Amanda Mondale (represented by Wilhelmina models), has beautifully classic features and was a true pleasure to recreate this image with. (Once in a blue moon you get to work with someone with skin like Amanda's.  It is flawless.  Radiant.  Not a pore or mark or blemish... it feels like you're cheating when you get skin so perfect).  Even with skin this amazing, I still used foundation.  More so that there is something for the rest of the makeup to stick to than to even out skin tone or cover anything.  There is a time and place for a no foundation look, but this wasn't it.

Recreating this look requires a bit of product to blend other products into.  That said the application was very light, and I used a brush and Beauty Blender to thin out the makeup as much as possible.  After applying Got the Goods Multi-Benefit Foundation in Light 3, I used the That's Brilliant Face & Eye Luminizer down the bridge of the nose, along the tops of the cheekbones, and under the eyes adjacent to the sides of the nose to provide a luminescence to the skin.  For the cheeks I used Just Pinched Instant Blush Cream Blush in Peachy on the cheekbones and buffed it into the skin with a brush.

After setting the foundation with Set Things Right Loose Powder in Light, I used a concealer to lighten the brows.  Amanda has dark blonde brows and Gwyneth's were a bit lighter and thinner.  Using concealer is a great way to take the focus off of the brows.  I took a spooly and coated it with cream concealer, and then brushed it through the brows - brushing back and forth to make sure all of the hairs are covered - and then brush them up to set them.



Just Pinched Instant Blush Tint (which is a cream blush) in Peachy and Cheeky to Save the Day Anti Acne Concealer Stick in Light, mixing it on a palette to warm up the color.

The more pink/peach the concealer you use to conceal a brow, the better. The warmth will cut the ash of the brown out of the hair, which is what can make the brows look kind of grey.  I added a tiny bit of

For the eyes, I used a mix of three eyeshadow colors.  First I applied I-mark. Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Sugar Sugar from the lashes up towards the brow bone.  Then I applied I-mark. Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Tiki from the lash line up to the crease, blending up and out, and smudged a little under outer corners of the lower lashes.  A little I-mark Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Biscotti in the inner corners of the eyes added the highlight.  For the liner I used No Place To Run Eyeliner in Foxy Brown right along the lash line, smudging it until there was no line of demarkation.  After curling the lashes I used Scanda-Lash Go To Mascara in Blackest Black, three coats, on the top and bottom, letting it get a little clumpy to replicate the 60's feeling of the look.

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To match the lips in the Harper's picture I mixed Lipclick Full Color Lipstick in Sweetie Pie & Luxe Champagne together.

I really do love doing these looks.  it's so fun for me to recreate the work that inspires me, using products I love to work with.  I hope you enjoy reading the breakdowns and find them inspiring as well!  Now get out there and start painting those faces!




photographer:  Andrews Stiles (www.andrewstiles.com)  /  model: Amanda Mondale (wilhelmina models)  /  hair: Jen Blanchard


Product List:

Foundation:
Got the Goods Multi-Benefit  Foundation in Light 3

Concealer:
Save the Day Anti Acne Concealer Stick in Light

Highlighter:
That's Brilliant Face & Eye Luminizer

Powder:
Set Things Right Loose Powder in Light

Cheeks:
Just Pinched Instant Blush in Peachy

Eyes:
I-mark Wet/Dry Eyeshadow in Biscotti, Tiki and Sugar Sugar
No Place To Run Eyeliner in Foxy Brown
Scanda-Lash Go To Mascara in Blackest Black

Lips:
Lipclick Full Color Lipstick in Sweetie Pie & Luxe Champagne (Luxe Champagne was a limited item)

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HARPER'S BAZAAR CREDITS:
photographer: Daniel Jackson
makeup: Emma Lovell
hair: Malcolm Edwards



Get the Look: Lucy Hale at the Teen Choice Awards


Hair: Scott Cuhna   /   Styling: Penny Lovell

Lucy Hale was the presenter for the Teen Choice Awards last Sunday and I had the extreme pleasure of getting to do her makeup for the red carpet and for the show.  Lucy and I met a few months ago on a shoot for mark. cosmetics and we have been working together ever since.  I love her face.... she has such great features and she can really wear a bit of makeup without it looking like it's too much.  Not everyone can pull off an eye and a lip at the same time, but Lucy really can.

That said, for the red carpet we really focused on eyes.  Daytime red carpets are tricky because they really wash the person out.  For instance, this was a smokier eye than it shows here and the lip was a baby pink, not the pale nude pink that you see here (and her dress was a pale mint green...get the picture?).  So I'm going to give the breakdown as I did it.  The only noticable difference is that there was more shadow on the eyes.

After my usual skin prep, a did a light application of foundation and concealer to even out her skin tone and used a little peachy blush on the apples of her cheeks.  A bit of highlighter applied to the cheekbones and the bridge of the nose added life and light to the face.

Lucy's brows are perfect.  I love them so much.  I just use a tiny bit of pencil to finish of the shape, but it's really gilding the lily.  They are so good.  Hurray for bold brows!  

For the eyes I used Minx shadow, a beautiful shimmery mink color, over the lid up past the crease and swept it softly under the lower lid.  I blended it out into a soft ring around the eyes that just looked like natural shading.  Then I used Moss over the Minx, but kept it closer to the lashes.  This just gives a little more definition to the eyes, and the soft green shadow picked up the green in Lucy's eyes. The next step was to push Tabac shadow into the lash line for more depth. To complete the look for the eyes, I used a black pencil on the top lash line, and on the outer corner of the lower lashes as well as in the waterline, followed by black liquid liner smudged into the lash line. I kind of smushed it into the lashes....It isn't a hard line, the liquid liner just makes the black very rich and dark.  Mascara on the top and bottom opened up the eyes. Always always always lots of mascara.

We went with a soft pink on the lips that was a really pretty baby pink color. Like I said, you can't really see it here, so you'll have to take my work for it!

Hope you liked the look.  Keep reading to see the products I used and the lip changes I did during the show.....

Moisturizer:
Yonka Pamplemousse

Foundation:
mark. Got the Goods in Medium

Concealer:
mark. Save the Day in Medium

Highlighter: 
Hourglass Ambient Light in Dim

Powder:
mark. Set Things Right Loose Powder in Medium

Blush:
mark. Just Blushing in Charmed

Brows:
Anastasia Brow Wiz in Brunette

Eyes:
mark. I-mark. Wet/Dry Shadow in Moss, Minx and Tabac
mark. No Place to Run pencil liner in Jet Black
mark. Get in Line liquid liner in Painted Black

Mascara:
mark. Scanda-lash Go To mascara in Blackest Black

Lips:
mark. Lipclick One Click Lipstick in Cupid

Body:
Prtty Peaushun in Medium

Lucy had a few wardrobe changes for the show so we quickly did hair and makeup changes backstage.  I really focused on just changing the lips as time was very tight.  And we all know a new lip color can make everything feel different.  Lipstick does a lot of heavy lifting!

For the opening of the show we went with a bright coral lipstick to play with the pale blue of her dress and her bright orange heels.  The color really popped on stage and looked beachy/sexy which went well with the theme of the Teen Choice Awards show.

Lips:
mark. Lipclick in Coral Fixation
For her next change I went with a warm rosy pink with a bit of sheen to it.  It caught the light beautifully and love how it picked up some of the rosy tones in the dress.

Lips:
mark. Lipclick in Baby Luv